The Preformed Pond

Before You Begin

• Choose a location with both sun and shade.  Most aquatic plants need from 5 to 6 hours of full sunlight to grow and bloom as expected.  Both plants and fish will benefit from shade at some point in the day.  If you do not have an area that receives 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight, there are many lilies and other aquatic plants that will do well on much less.
• Do not locate your pond directly under or to near a tree.  Although it may look very inviting, contending with the leaves  will make the upkeep on your pond more difficult.
• Decide on the shape and depth of the pond you want, then draw a diagram of your yard to scale, making you have the space the installation will require.  A pond of varying depths is ideal and will accommodate many types of plants an wildlife.  For lilies, a depth of 18" is ideal.  6" to 8" of depth is  required by most marginal plants, frogs, and salamanders. The location need not be perfectly level.  Remember however, you want the pond to be level, with no danger of run off water entering.
• Decide what you will use for edging.  If you want a natural look, flat rocks are great.  Collect them from a field or creek bed.  Fieldstone also works well.

Tip:  My pre formed pond has been in the ground now for ten years.  If you want to see how I did it, the directions are listed below.  I live in zone 5 on the fringes of zone 6.  It freezes here in winter.  My pond has remained in good condition, and I attribute this to laying a good foundation for it to rest upon.  Read on.

• If you have chosen a level site, installation will be easy.  Turn the pond upside down, and dig around its perimeter.  At this point you are making an outline.  Start digging.  Plan to dig about 4 inches deeper that the depth of your pond.  Pay close attention to plant shelves, and differences in depth.  If your pond is 18" at one end and 6" on the other, dig the hole to compensate for the depth change.  You want a good fit, so that may mean pulling the pond in and out of the hole many times before you get it right.  You want about 3 or 4 inches between the side of the pond, and the hole.  You want to make sure your pond is level.  Place a level in the bottom, and check it often.  The lip of the pond should be slightly above ground level.  One or two inches will do.  This will prevent run off water from entering your pond. 
• Line the bottom of the hole with 2 inches of folded newspaper.  This will help control root growth from nearby trees if you have them.  If there aren't any trees, you won't need the newspapers.
• After you have the pond situated in the hole, begin filling around the sides with builders sand.  Add sand, then water, let it settle, then add more sand and water, until the sand is level with the ground.  This will help eliminate air pockets under your pond.
•  Line the perimeter with stone, letting the pond lip rest on top of it.  Spread a thin layer of mortar, then then add another thin layer of stone.  Fill in between the stones with mortar. 
• Allow time for the mortar to cure before adding water.  This will prevent the lime in the mortar from poisoning the fish and plants.  Three days of good, a week is better.
• Fill the pond from a hose.  Let the water stand for 3 days before adding plants.  Wait one more week before you add fish or frogs.      

Stocking your Pond......Click here!

Planting your Pond....Click here!